Where I Am
The end of the world is where I call my temporary home. Langara Island is the northernmost island of Haida Gwaii in British Columbia, Canada, and so close to Alaska that we can see it on a clear day.
Backtrack 1 year, and I didn’t even know that this place existed. While I was living in Koh Tao in Thailand, a mate back in Aus convinced me to apply for my Canadian working visa. But once that was in the bag, I didn’t have the foggiest about what I wanted to do when I got there. By chance, one of my now best friends who I met living in Tao told me about a little fishing lodge wayyyy up north in BC and said I should apply so we could work there in the summer.
Next thing you know, this lil Aussie is living up near Alaska and watching humpbacks and orcas cruise past her workplace, all while getting acquainted with this little piece of the end of the world.
What I’m Doing
Since May I’ve been working in Guest Services at a Fishing Lodge up here on Langara Island in Canada. It’s long hours – 11 hours a day, 6 days a week, but the money’s good and the people are even better. I’ve met dudes and dudettes up here that will be life long friends, and I can’t wait to see where all our journeys take us.
When we’re not working our butts off, we’re exploring Langara Island and neighbouring Graham Island, and getting to know more about the Haida culture. Graham Island in the north and Moresby Island in the south make up the majority of the Haida Nation, of which half of the 30,000 population is made up of the Haida people. The Haida people have inhabited these beautiful islands for more than 13,000 years, and their culture, history and respect for the land is one that I was instantly fascinated by.
White settlers and fur traders bought disease and pestilence (amongst other things) in the 1800s, and efforts are finally being made to remedy the errors of the past. Whether they will ever right the wrongs done to the Haida people I don’t know, but groups such as The Watchmen are ensuring that the Haida people have a voice.
Where I’ve Been
We each get 1 week off work for the whole May-September fishing season, and instead of spending it bumming around Canada I decided to leg it down to Mexico. I’m lucky enough to have two stella friends down in Puerta Vallerta, and spent 3 glorious days with them soaking up the sun and kicking their asses at Clue. I met these two rascals while I was working at a hostel in San Fran, and since then they’ve become some of my dearest mates.
Where I’m Going
My time up at Langara Island will come to an end in mid-September, after which I’ll be heading back to Victoria in BC, Canada for a few weeks. But I’ll be postponing my return to civilisation by hiking the beautiful Juan de Fuca trail and getting in tune with myself again.
This multi-day 47km hike follows the coastline up the west side of Vancouver Island, from China Beach near Sooke to Botanical Beach near Port Renfrew. It’s generally done over 3-4 days, but I plan on taking 5 to do it so I can spend my time reading, relaxing, and waterfall hunting.
After that, I’ll settle down in Victoria again for a few weeks, sorting out all the stuff I have scattered around, before making the jump across to pond to Europe. My first stop will be Crete to meet up with two beautiful new friends I met up here at Langara, and then I’m making the move to:
There’s been a slight hiccup with my working visa that I’m trying to sort out, which does throw a spanner in the works because I’ve already been offered a job 🤦. But the worst-case scenario is that I’ll spend three months exploring Malta and it’s sunny surrounds. Greece, Morocco, The Red Sea, Spain, Italy… So many options. And best of all, my family is flying over to meet me in Malta for my first few weeks there. While I’m on that beautiful island nation I’ll be honing my freediving skills and learning to sail, because my next big plan is to:
Buy a boat
Yup. A boat. I had the brainwave a few months ago, reminiscing about how much I loved travelling around in a van. The only part of it I didn’t like was being away from the water and realised that hang on… A boat is an ocean van! So I’ll start learning the ropes in Malta and then am looking to be crew a boat on at least a 1-month voyage to somewhere.
Exciting times friends, exciting times.
- Juan de Fuca trail (Vancouver Island, Canada) Sept 17 – 22nd
- Victoria (Vancouver Island, Canada) Sept 22 – 29th
- London (UK) Sept 29 – Oct 7th
- Crete (Greece) Oct 7 – 14th
- Malta Oct 15 – ?
On the day the world ends
A bee circles a clover,
A fisherman mends a glimmering net.
Happy porpoises jump in the sea,
By the rainspout young sparrows are playing
And the snake is gold-skinned as it should always be.
On the day the world ends
Women walk through the fields under their umbrellas,
A drunkard grows sleepy at the edge of a lawn,
Vegetable peddlers shout in the street
And a yellow-sailed boat comes nearer the island,
The voice of a violin lasts in the air
And leads into a starry night.
And those who expected lightning and thunder
And those who expected signs and archangels’ trumps
Do not believe it is happening now.
As long as the sun and the moon are above,
As long as the bumblebee visits a rose,
As long as rosy infants are born
No one believes it is happening now.
Only a white-haired old man, who would be a prophet
Yet is not a prophet, for he’s much too busy,
Repeats while he binds his tomatoes:
No other end of the world will there be,
No other end of the world will there be.
– Czeslaw Milosz